“Mud Cloth” Pillow with Inktense

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Hey there! So I picked up some Jaquard No Flow when I was at a “real deal” art supply store the other day and I was curious to see how it would perform. According to the label you’re supposed to paint it onto the entire surface of your fabric and then voila you can paint with dye and it won’t run! Hmmmmm, I was a little skeptical but I was willing to give it a try. My plan was to paint on a mud cloth inspired design using naturally derived indigo.

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I decided to grab a white cotton canvas Ikea pillow case that I had laying around. Before painting the fabric with the No Flow, I put a piece of clear vinyl into the pillow case to prevent any bleed through.

The No Flow is really thick and it’s very difficult to see on white fabric. So I was super careful to make certain that I covered every square inch of my pillow case. I then put it outside to dry while I tended to my indigo vat.

I’m excited to (finally) be sharing a bit of info about indigo dyeing with y’all! I will definitely be doing more indigo tutorials in the near future. It’s one of my favorite dyes for a multitude of reasons. First, the color. I LOVE this color. It’s ancient and timeless and chic and classy and…sublime. Next, as a dye it’s super fun to work with. I use Pre-Reduced Indigo Crystals from Dharma Trading. This is naturally derived indigo that has been “reduced” to make it much faster and easier to work with than traditional indigo which is not water soluble and requires a series of time consuming steps to get into a workable form. My current indigo vat has been going for well over one year now. I simply add Thiox or Color Remover and/or indigo as needed to maintain it. I also love that the fabric comes out of the vat green in color and then turns blue as it oxidizes. It’s still fun for me to watch this process! Finally, I love that indigo works on protein fibers and plant based fibers and no mordant is required!

The only “con” that I can think of is that indigo can fade over time (like a pair of jeans), but that really doesn’t bother me all that much. 🙂

Although it may be difficult to see here, my vat is looking a bit grey blue and murky which tells me that it needs an addition of Thiox and indigo. Click here for instructions on how to tend to an indigo vat.

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Hello there! Can you see me and my phone in the indigo?

I’m adding 10-11 grams of indigo and Thiox.

Next, I gave my vat a good stir (first clockwise then counterclockwise). The bubbles that form on top are known as the “flower.”  This is a cap or crust that helps to keep oxygen out of your dye bath. You will need to remove it before you dye and then replace it when you are done.

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Since I’m not vat dyeing in this instance, I simply scooped up some of my dye and put it into a glass jar so that I could paint my pillowcase with it.

I decided to sketch out a design with a pencil before I began painting. As I mentioned, I was inspired by the designs in traditional African mud cloth.

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Here goes! Fingers crossed!

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Well, it mostly worked but there are definitely a few areas where the dye seems to be bleeding a bit. Perhaps a second coat of the No Flow would have done the trick?

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I don’t like how fuzzy my edges are! I was really hoping for crisp, clean edges! So, I decided to break out these:

This is my first time using the Fabric Fun Dye Sticks and my third or forth go with the Inktense Sticks. The Fabric Fun sticks are waxy and the intensity of color doesn’t match the Inktense. After some experimentation, the Inktense sticks took the win by a mile and I stopped using the Fabric Fun altogether.

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As you can see, I decided to change up my design as I moved along. The pencil lines will wash out, so no worries! The Inktense sticks are easy to draw with and when you go over them with water, they dissolve and become more intensely colored. According to the directions, they need to sit for 24 hours and then be heat set before the color is washable.

At this point, I noticed that in spite of my best efforts some of the indigo had bled through onto the back of my pillowcase. So I decided to go with the flow and brush indigo onto the entire backside.

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I set my pillowcase to dry and this is what I found the next day.

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Yikes! What’s up with that ugly yellow ring around my pillow? I’m thinking it’s from the indigo and I’m hoping that it washes out?! Regardless, I went ahead and heat set it for 1-3 minutes with my iron on the hottest setting.

Next, I washed my pillowcase in Synthrapol (which is a professional textile detergent – however, any mild detergent would be fine) and it took about four quick washes to get my water to run clear. When I pulled the pillowcase out of the water, the nasty yellow ring had disappeared! Yay!

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For some odd reason I didn’t take pictures at this  point. Argh! But suffice it to say that the wash water took away a good bit of my color even though I heat set everything?! Maybe this had to do with the No Flow? To remedy the situation, I went over all of my lines, first with Inktense and then with a water laden brush. I then gave the back another brush with some Indigo and I added a few black and blue lines with the Inktense for some interest.

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The pillow case is wet in both of the pictures above. so the colors are most certainly darker than they will ultimately be, but I’m liking what I see. 🙂

After 24 hours I ironed my fabric on high heat for about 5 minutes.

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Here it is before it was washed.

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My fingers are crossed that the color holds fast this time. I’m really starting to think that the No Flow interfered with the Inktense because my lines are much more clear and saturated this time.

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Okay, so I lost a little color in the wash, but not bad. I can’t decide if I like the black that bled out around the edges of the lines. On the one hand it gives it a bit of dimension…on the other it looks a bit smudgy. 😦  As for the No Flow it was a “no go” on this one! Perhaps it was my fabric choice or the indigo? My experience tells me that it may work best on silk with silk paints so I’m willing to give it another try at some point. In the end, this was more about the Inktense sticks than the No Flow or even the indigo.

Please feel free to share your thoughts or your experiences with any of these products! 🙂

 

Easy Peasy Ikea Pillow Cover Hack

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Hello dear readers! I saw this pin on Pinterest and it inspired me to create this easy peasy, totally fabulous pillow cover. I was recently at my (not so local) Ikea store and I picked up a few of these pillow covers.

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I love the color and I love the fabric, which looks like linen but according to the package is made from ramie. What the heck is ramie? I did a little research and here’s what I found on this site:

Despite the shroud of mystery surrounding it, especially in the US market, ramie is evidently one of the oldest fibers cultivated for textiles. Commonly called China Grass, it is grown and used mainly in southern and eastern Asia (with some production in Brazil). Only a small percentage of the overall production seems to be exported for use in Euro/America. Ramie fibers are naturally white, which reduces the need for bleaching, but in order to be used in textiles, they require extensive processing, including de-gumming. The fibers are also very strong and—like linen—improve in strength when wet with very little shrinkage.

Interesting! It has a lovely hand and honestly I would not have known that it wasn’t linen if I hadn’t read the package. Anyways, it was a great starting point, but it was definitely crying out for some color and pattern. When I saw the pin for paper roll shape stamps that I mentioned above I thought, why not?

Materials:

Tutorial

Step 1: Grab and one of these:

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Then cut your paper towel roll holder in half (If you’re using a toilet paper roll holder, then you don’t need to cut it). I used a serrated knife thinking that I would get a cleaner cut and less squishing of the roll. The later was true, the first not so much. So I decided to use the nice, flat factory ends. Regardless, cutting it in half makes it more manageable to work with.

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Step 2: Manipulate your paper roll holder into whatever shape pleases you. I’m going for a squarish shape.

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Step 3: Put some paint or ink onto a flat surface and roll it out. I’m using a brayer, but a little paint roller would work fine. This is just to get your paint/ink into a nice thin layer so that you don’t blob too much paint onto your “stamp.”

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Step 4: Experiment on a scrap piece of fabric or even a paper towel until you find a pattern that you like.

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Step 5: Iron your pillow cover until it’s relatively flat. Then fold it in half and press it in both directions with your iron. This will give you your center point as well as vertical and horizontal lines to help guide you as you print.

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Step 6: Put a barrier of some sort between your fabric so that your paint doesn’t bleed through. I’m using a piece of clear vinyl, but aluminum foil would work fine.

Step 7: Gently pounce your stamp into your paint and begin stamping starting at your center point and working your way out.

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About 3/4 of the way through I noticed that my “stamp” was looking a bit squished and my prints weren’t as sharp. So, I decided to use the other end of my paper towel roll to start anew.

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Maybe I was a little too assertive with my stamping? Or maybe you will need to do this too…so I would have the other half of your paper towel roll handy. If you’re using a toilet paper roll, I suppose that you could simply turn it over. 🙂

Here it is right after I finished printing:

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As you can see, I put some paper towels around the edges. This helps to keep things nice and tidy so that when I’m done printing I can simply pull out the paper towels and I don’t have to worry about getting paint on the underside of my pillow.  You can also see that the row of circles at the bottom isn’t perfectly straight. I’m not sure where things went a bit off kilter, but I’m totally okay with it. This is a handcrafted, hand printed item, so imperfections are part of what makes it beautiful.

Step 8: Allow your fabric to dry completely and then heat set it with an iron on the hottest setting for 1-3 minutes. I generally place a cloth between my fabric and my iron in order to protect my work of art.

Here it is, so great, right?! And SO EASY, this truly requires no artistic ability and in my humble opinion it’s so much cuter than the plain pillow cover. I love the combination of grey and orange and I really love how the paint is brighter in the spots where it went on a bit thicker – It definitely adds dimension and interest to this simple, modern pattern.

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Lotus Flower Stamp – Turning a Lemon into Lemonade!

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The block printing mania continues! In my last post I reviewed six carving blocks and I gave you my humble opinion regarding the pros and cons of each. In the course of this block carving odyssey, I tried out a linoleum block, which I hated. The carving was really difficult and the print (as you can see) was pretty bad.

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I was making this pillow case for my lovely niece Breanna who loves owls…and since I ran out of pillow cases and I couldn’t order more (because they’re on back order at Dharma Trading), I decided to try to salvage this one. My first step was to insert a piece of clear vinyl between my fabric (to prevent any bleed through). Then I set about to cover the whole thing with black ink.

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I initially tried to put the ink on with a little roller, but that didn’t work very well. I needed to roll over the same spots repeatedly and I seemed to be using a ton of ink. So, I grabbed one of my daubers (bottom left corner below) and I gave that a go. This worked much better!

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When I was finished, I set my pillow case outside to dry in the sun. Here it is, the color isn’t completely solid but I’m okay with that.

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Now it’s time to carve! After a little poking around on my niece’s Pinterest boards 🙂 I noticed that she has a thing for lotus flowers so I decided to incorporate them into my design.

But I digress…before the designing and carving bit you will need to work out the size of your carving block. In this case, since my pillow cover is 16 x 16 inches I decided to make my block 4 x 4 inches (using my favorite Soft-Kut blocks) so that I can get a nice pattern going. I first discovered the pattern making technique that I will be using when I saw Julie Balzer’s amazing pins on Pinterest. However, I soon realized that making patterns by assembling small pieces to form a whole goes WAY back to ancient times…like Mesopotamian mosaics and tile work. Not to mention quilt making which dates to ancient Egypt.

Now that you have your block cut and ready to go you will need to draw a grid – actually this isn’t mandatory but it will help you immensely when you’re drawing your design. Mind you, this is coming from someone who is all too happy to freehand something! However, soon after diving into this technique I realized that precision is super important when you’re trying to create a repeating pattern.

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Now it’s time for the fun part! I found a picture of a lotus flower that I used as a starting point…the rest I made up.

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Next, simply carve out all of your lines with your smallest carving tool. This will give you a little “moat” that will help you to stay in the lines when you begin to remove more material.

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Now you need to think about your positive and negative space or what you want to print and what you want to remain the background color. Grab a larger tool and begin carving the block to create your “negative”space (the color of your fabric).

 

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Pretty, right?! Next you will need to do a test print on paper with a regular ink pad. This is a super important step, so don’t skip it! This print will allow you to see your lines much more clearly and it will enable you to determine where you need to do a bit more carving. I always discover areas that need more carving when I do this…and I’m always excited to get an idea of how my design is coming together. 🙂

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After carving a bit more out here and there, this is my block.

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Next you will need to find the center of your fabric. I typically fold my fabric in half in both directions and I press it with an iron to get my center. However, since I already had my vinyl in place and since my fabric is black, it seemed easier to just mark off the center using a ruler and some white chalk.

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Alright so now for the printing part…I’m using Super Opaque White Ink by Versatex. I put the ink onto a piece of plexi that I picked up at Home Depot (you can use glass or any other hard, flat surface) and I rolled it out with my brayer. Please note that this ink is quite thick and the open time is short so it’s best to work quickly.

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Next, I rolled my ink onto my block with my brayer as smoothly and evenly as possible.

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I then lined up the top left corner of my block with the center of my pillow case and I carefully laid my inked block down. Be sure to press smoothly and evenly on the back side of your block. I have found that my fingers work just fine but some people use rollers or burnishers to get firmer pressure on their blocks. You can lift up a corner and take a peek at your print to make sure that your ink is transferring well. If it’s not, simply place it back down and apply more pressure.

When I got about seven blocks in, I started to notice a decline in my print quality. I think that the ink was starting to dry on the block so I cleaned it off before continuing.

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Once you have finished printing let your piece dry completely and heat set it for 1-3 minutes with an iron.

Here it is, what do you think? I like the white on black combo and I think that the design is cool but for a minute the lotus flowers looked like pot leaves…yikes! PLEASE tell me that I’m imagining things because that is NOT what I was going for!!!

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Block Printed Pillow

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Hi there lovely readers. After I forayed into block printing with my Eraser Stamp Pillow, I have to say that I became a little obsessed. This time I’m using an actual carving block and I’ve taken it up a few notches in terms of the pattern. I was inspired to try this technique when I saw Julie Balzer’s amazing hand carved stamps on Pinterest. The patterns look really complex, but when you break them down they’re totally doable! So hang in there with me on this one and you’ll see that the possibilities are endless!

Materials:

Tutorial

Step 1: Alright so we’re going to do a little math. In order to determine the size of the block that you’re going to carve you will need to measure your fabric and divide that number by an even number. In this case, my 14 x 14 inch pillow actually measures 13.5 x 13.5 inches. When I divide this by 4, I get 3.375 or 3 3/8 inches. I then cut a square out of my carving block using an exacto knife. It’s very helpful to use a metal ruler when cutting this material. Additionally, you will get a much cleaner cut if you cut in an up and down motion as opposed to dragging your knife across the block (which can result in snags and/or a jagged edge).

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Step 2: Now you need to mark off a grid on your carving block. This will make your design process much simpler and easier.

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Step 3: Design time! If you look carefully at the finished product above you will see that each square comes together to form an overall pattern. Essentially, each corner of your carving block is one quarter of a design. This will make more sense as we move along, I promise! Here’s my design. Feel free to copy mine, make small alterations, or completely change it and see what your get!

Hopefully you can see how helpful the grid lines are when sketching out your pattern. This pattern is somewhat complex, but you could most certainly simplify things! You could also draw your design on a piece of paper using a pencil and then transfer the design to your block. One of the awesome things about this material is that it accepts transfers easily. You simply need to lay your drawing (graphite side down) onto your block and rub firmly. Apparently, this also works with images from an inkjet printer. So cool.

Step 4: Carving time! The first step is to carve along all of your lines using your smallest carving tool. This will create a little “moat” so that when you come back in with your larger carving tool you will be much less likely to travel outside the lines. If you are new to carving this material, I highly recommend practicing on a scrap piece before you commit to a larger project. It can take some time to get the hang of it…for me, holding the carving tool in a more horizontal plane to the carving block prevents me from going too deep or gouging the material which gives me cleaner lines. I have also noticed that it is really important to carve away from all of the corners. This may require carving a line in two sections, but that’s okay. If you carve towards your corners, it’s very easy to move past the line and end up with a wanky corner. It doesn’t have to be perfect though, so if you mess up here or there, no worries!

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Step 5: Now you need to commit to where you do and don’t want to carve your block. You will need to think about the final design and how much positive and negative space you desire. Obviously any areas that you carve will be white (or the color of your fabric) and any uncarved areas will be the color of your ink. I used one of the larger v-shaped tools for this so that I could remove the material more quickly.

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Step 6: Next, you need to do a test print. I used a standard ink pad on white paper for this. Your test print will allow you to see areas that need to be cleaned up or carved more deeply. And you can also get an idea for how your overall design will look.

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Step 7: Once you’re satisfied with your design you will need to prepare your fabric for printing. First iron your fabric to remove any wrinkles. Next fold it in half in both directions and press a seam after each fold. This will give you the center of your fabric as well as vertical and horizontal lines to act as guides while you’re printing.

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Step 8: Place something under your fabric so that it doesn’t bleed through! I always use a piece of clear vinyl, but aluminum foil would work in a pinch.

Step 9: Find your center and start stamping. I’m using an ink pad that is specifically for use with fabric.

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Hmmmm, well I was hoping that it would print darker and I’m noticing that my math must have been a bit off  because my stamp isn’t reaching the edge. There are two potential problems with the color…either my ink pad is running low or the texture of my fabric is interfering with the ink transfer (this cotton pillow case has a grainier feel than some that I’ve used in the past). Despite my concerns, I pressed on.

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And then I screwed up. First on the lower right corner and then again in the next block up. What the bleep!!! I can understand once, but twice?! Sooooooo annoying! I would love to say that I get Martha Stewart perfect results every time, but I don’t. That’s not real life and it’s certainly not my real life.

I like the design so I’m going to try again on another pillow case. This time I will be using a 16 x 16 inch pillow case (because that’s all I have at the moment) so it will be interesting to see how my design lays out. I’m also going to try using some screen printing ink that I happened to have on hand. According to the product information, it can be used for block printing.

In traditional block printing, ink is placed on a piece of glass or plexi and a brayer is used to spread the ink into a thin, even coat and then it’s rolled onto a block. Unfortunately, as I attempted to roll out my ink I noticed that my brayer (which I haven’t picked up in a very long time) was not rolling properly. Time for plan B, I recalled reading somewhere that make-up sponges work well for applying ink to blocks and since I had a bag of those in the back of one of my cupboards, I went for that option.

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Step 9.1?: After ironing and placing a piece of vinyl in my pillow case, I inked up my stamp and got to work. This ink is definitely printing darker, but it’s also a bit “blobbier.” Make certain to press firmly and evenly onto all of your stamp – paying careful attention to your corners. You can lift a corner and peek at your print before removing it to be sure you didn’t miss anything.

Since my pattern went off the edge I found it useful to put a piece of paper or paper towel under the edge in order to keep things tidy (pic 2 above).

Step 10: Once I was done I noticed a few areas that didn’t print as dark as I wanted, so I re-inked that portion of my stamp and I carefully stamped on top. This worked surprisingly well! When you’re satisfied with your print, let it dry overnight and iron for 15-30 seconds to make your ink permanent and your fabric washable.

Here it is! What do you think?

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Eraser Stamp Pillow

 

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Alright people! This is a really cool project that truly doesn’t require ANY artistic ability! It’s a bit of a departure in that I won’t be doing any hand dyeing, but I figure that stamping on fabric is close enough. I have been enamored with printmaking since I took a class as an undergrad, so there may be more printmaking heading your way!

Materials:

Tutorial

Step 1: Get your hands on a large one of these:

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Step 2: Cut off one of the slanted ends with an exacto knife so that you have a rectangle.

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Step 3: Find the middle of your eraser (my eraser is one inch wide, so I marked it at 1/2 inch in a few places) and drew a line.

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Step 4: Okay, so I jumped the gun a bit in the pic above! Now start making angled lines along the length of your center line.

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Step 5: Use your lovely little block cutter to carve your lines. As you can see I din’t follow my lines exactly. This isn’t meant to be perfect – it is handmade after all! Besides (speaking as a partially reformed perfectionist) perfection is highly overrated.

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By the way, I have done block printing before using a variety of carving blocks. This is the first time that I have used an eraser and I have to say that I loved it! It carved really smoothly and easily.

Step 6: Ink up your stamp and do a test print. I’m using regular old stamp ink for this so that I don’t waste any of my pricey fabric ink. It is super important to do a test print because it allows you to see if you need to go back and carve a bit more here or there. Mine looks good!

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Step 7: Okay, so this is where my head started to hurt a bit. I decided to do this really cool pattern and although it isn’t hard, it definitely took me some time to wrap my brain around it. So I practiced on a few sheets of paper first. Here are my efforts.

By gosh, I think I finally got it! Wait, that doesn’t sound right?! I think it’s “by George,” right? Anyways, I got it!

Step 8: Iron your pillow case or whatever fabric you’re using. Fold it in half and then in half again and press it with your iron. This will give you the middle point as well as vertical and horizontal lines to help guide you as you stamp. Now place something under your fabric so that your stamp ink doesn’t bleed through. I’m using a piece of clear vinyl that I inserted between the two layers of my pillow case. The pic on the right shows the vinyl, it is folded in half to make it more visible to you, my dear readers. 🙂

Step 9: Find the center of your piece and begin stamping around that point. Ink your stamp well and be sure to press firmly and evenly when you place your stamp.

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This took some patience and a steady hand…I was doing great until the bottom left corner where I lost my focus and I placed a stamp in the wrong spot. So, I took a deep breath and I just kept going trying to form the same basic shape. It got a little out of control and I have to say that the perfectionist in me was freaking out a little bit. What was I saying about perfectionism being overrated?????

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In the end I think it looks cool. Who says that it has to be the same pattern the whole way through?! I think that the lesson here is that you can make a mistake (or 10) and it will still be okay. 🙂 🙂 🙂

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Step 10: Let your ink dry completely and then heat set it with your iron for 15-30 seconds (no steam). This will make your print permanent and it will allow you to wash your fabric if needed.

Well, there it is in all of it’s glory, what do you think?

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Bleeding Tissue Paper Tutorial – Modern Throw Pillow

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Hello there! This is a very simple project. If you can cut strips of paper, you can do this. I mean it, no joke. So let’s dig in!

Materials:

Tutorial

Step 1: Add 2 tablespoons of soda ash to 4 cups of warm water. Give your soda ash a few minutes to dissolve and add your fabric. Soak for 15 – 30 minutes.

FYI – This bleeding tissue paper technique was one of the first methods that I ever used to dye fabric! I saw a tutorial on the Dharma Trading website and it seemed so easy. However, I had trouble with the dye not fixing well which resulted in faded fabric and/or dye that ran endlessly when the fabric was washed. I have since read suggestions to use a vinegar soak prior to dyeing or to spray the tissue with vinegar (in fact I think the Dharma site has changed their tutorial to include vinegar). However, I have also read multiple comments from folks saying that they still had problems with the color running. So this is where the soda ash comes in. Although it is more typically used as a fixative for fiber reactive dyes, it does a good job of fixing this dye. I have also noticed that some of the pillow cases that I made long ago without the use of vinegar or soda ash seemed to have fixed well after heat setting. However, these pieces sat for about a year before I heat set and washed them (I had tossed them aside since it had been such a struggle to set this dye!). So, maybe no fixative is required if you don’t wash your piece for a good long while. 🙂

P.S. – I have only used this product on silk, but from what I understand there are no restrictions on the type of fabric that you can use.

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Step 2: Wring out your fabric and lay your pillow case on a work surface. Make certain to smooth out your fabric as much as possible.

You may wish to use gloves to do this because although soda ash is no more toxic than laundry detergent (which typically contains a lot of soda ash) it can irritate your skin. If you choose not to wear gloves please be sure to wash your hands well after handling your fabric.

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Step 3: Grab one sheet of bleeding tissue paper in the color of your choice. I love the combination of black and white, but you can use whatever color or design you wish! I folded my paper in half and then in half again and I used a pencil and a yardstick to draw lines (some wide and some more narrow). I cut along the lines without being too finicky.

Step 4: Lay your tissue paper on your fabric. I like to spritz the paper with water and smush it down with my finger tips as I go to insure that the tissue is making good contact with the fabric.

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As you can see from the picture above, there is a colorful halo around the edges of the paper. The black bleeding tissue paper by Spectra Art is the only color that does this. The effect generally gets stronger as the paper dries…so fun!

Step 5: Once your pillow case and your tissue paper are completely dry lift up your paper and check out your design. If you are happy with your result, iron your fabric for three to five minutes to further set the color, wash it with a mild detergent and rinse until your water runs clear. Please note that even with the soda ash fixative you will still get some dye run off when you wash your fabric.

This is my result. I’m not thrilled with it, it’s just okay. I like how the lines look layered but I would like them to be much darker and more solid. Since I have plenty of tissue paper strips left, I’m going to go over my lines a second time. Fingers crossed!

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Step 6: I’m really hoping that you won’t need a step six, but I definitely do! I sprayed the pillow case with water until it was fairly saturated and then I laid down my strips and sprayed them with water.

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As you can see there is much more dye bleeding out around the edges this time. I think that this is because I used a much bigger spray bottle and my tissue paper was really wet. I have to say that I’m kinda loving the juxtaposition between the straight black lines and the more fluid lines where the dye is bleeding.

This is how it looked when it was dry and I pulled off all of the paper.

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The “halo” effect is much stronger this time and I’m kind of obsessed with the bright yellow and pink that showed up at the bottom. It’s so cool how the black tissue paper leaches out pink, yellow, and blue! But it totally makes sense since black is composed of red (magenta), yellow, and blue (cyan).

*If you end up doing another layer of tissue paper, don’t forget to heat set your fabric and wash it in a mild detergent. There is no need to do this in between each layer. It’s only necessary to complete this step when you are all done. 🙂

Now here it is after it was heat set, washed and ironed again to get the wrinkles out.

 

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The black faded a tiny bit but the biggest thing that I noticed is that most of the yellow and some of the pink washed out. 😦 It’s still really pretty but I wish that those colors had stayed put!

Now here’s the cover shot!

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Comments and questions are welcome. Thanks for stopping by!

Dyeing with Turmeric Shibori Style

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Hello Sunshine! I have been wanting to try turmeric dyeing for a while now. Some of the examples that I have seen online are really beautiful. Much like the spice itself, the yellow is super saturated and gorgeous like bright golden sunshine! I love saturated colors so this is right up my alley. I figured that a pillow case would be a good starting point. To add a design element I will be doing a stitch resist shibori technique.

Materials:

  • silk pillow case – animal or protein fibers such as silk and wool will dye brighter than plant based fibers such as cotton or hemp, but any natural fiber will work
  • something round – I’m using a ceramic plate
  • washable marker or a vanishing fabric marker
  • artificial sinew, embroidery floss, or dental floss
  • large pot – a dedicated dye pot is recommended
  • 8 cups of water
  • 4 heaping tablespoons of turmeric – I bought a jar at Trader Joes for $1.99
  • 1 heaping tablespoon of alum – this is a mordant or fixative, I buy mine here 

 Tutorial

Step 1: Create a simple design on your fabric. I traced around a plate with a washable marker

Step 2: Stitch around your circle as shown below. I’m using artificial sinew because it is waterproof and I’m hoping it will give me nice clean lines. Make certain that your sinew (or whatever) is long enough to go around your circle and that you are left with a long tail (this will make more sense in a minute). In order to accommodate the sinew, I’m using a largish embroidery needle. If you do the same, you will notice that the needle will make small holes in your fabric. Don’t freak out, it will be fine as long as you’re okay with the holes. 🙂 If you are not okay with them then use a smaller needle and dental floss or embroidery floss. I’m going through both layers of the pillow case at once but you could certainly limit your stitching to the top layer if you want the back of your pillow to be a solid color. I’m also weaving the needle through multiple times with each pass (which makes this process go so much faster!).

Step 3: Now pull your sinew tightly making sure to pull the fabric in the center of your circle straight up.

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Step 4: Take your tail (the one you left earlier) and bind the center of your circle with your sinew. I want a lot of white so I’m binding quite a bit of the fabric. I would also like a solid colored circle in the center so I’m leaving a bit of fabric at the top.

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Step 5: Put four cups of water into your pot with one heaping tablespoon of alum and four heaping tablespoons of turmeric. Turn your heat to high and give your powders a few minutes to dissolve.

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Step 6: Wet your fabric (wet fabric accepts dye more evenly) and put it in your pot. Bring to a simmer and turn your heat down. For a nice medium yellow set your timer for one hour.

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Step 7: Once you are happy with the color of your fabric take it out, give it a rinse, untie your sinew, rinse again until your water runs clear and let it air dry. Iron to get out any wrinkles and to increase the colorfastness of your fabric.

I wanted my color to be really saturated so after one hour was up, I turned off the heat and let it sit for about four hours.

Please note that turmeric can be a fugitive dye meaning that it may fade over time and/or with exposure to the sun. The alum and the heat setting will help to prevent this from happening. Additionally, protein fibers like silk and wool accept the dye more readily and are more colorfast than plant based fibers.

Here’s the finished product. The yellow is SO gorgeous and happy! The dye pot is calling me to throw something else in…perhaps a scarf this time?

If you would rather buy than DIY go here.

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